Things to do in Phoenix, Arizona: where to stay, eat and drink

Early autumn is the ideal time to visit this foodie city, says Edmund Vallance

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Edmund Vallance7 September 2016

There are few places in the US more sweltering than Arizona in high summer, when temperatures can top 40C. But as August draws to a close and the heat starts to settle to a simmer, now is a great time to plan a visit to the state capital, Phoenix.

Scottsdale remains the city’s swankiest district and last year opened the American West-dedicated Museum of the West (00 1 480 686 9539; scottsdalemuseumwest.org), since awarded various accolades. Outdoorsy types will also find plenty to occupy them nearby: the Sonoran Desert is easily explored by air balloon, horseback or 4x4 and there are also more than 130 miles of walking trails, from easy hikes to summit climbs in the McDowell Mountains.

Bed down: star quality

Designed by Edward Varney — a protégé of architect Frank Lloyd Wright — Hotel Valley Ho (00 1 480 248 2000; hotelvalleyho.com) celebrates its 60th anniversary this year with a major refurbishment. The mid-century building has hosted golden-era movie stars such as Marilyn Monroe, Ingrid Bergman and Cary Grant. The rooms have Fifties furnishings and floor-to-ceiling windows, many with views of Scottsdale’s most prominent landmark: Camelback Mountain. There are two pools, a spa, a fitness centre and daily yoga classes on the rooftop deck. Doubles from $299, room only.

A suite at Hotel Valley Ho

Fed and watered: full-on fusion

Once the home of limp burgers and bland tacos, Phoenix has risen to become one of the premier foodie cities in the US, and is now a melting pot of Asian fusion and Mediterranean-style restaurants, with a strong emphasis on fresh, local ingredients.

A favourite on this new scene is FnB (00 1 480 284 4777; fnbrestaurant.com), where celebrated chef Charleen Badman focuses on richly flavoured, “globally accented” but “locally inspired” cuisine. Think duck confit with foraged mushrooms, and butterscotch pudding with whipped cream and nutmeg — all paired with an exclusively Arizonan wine list. The scene here is upscale casual; besuited businessmen dining side by side with tattooed hipsters.

Sophisticated comfort food at FnB

Sanctuary on Camelback Mountain is probably the poshest of the resorts in and around Scottsdale, and the floor-to-ceiling windows at Elements (001 480 607 2300; sanctuaryoncamelback.com), the hotel’s Asian-influenced restaurant, look out onto gorgeous desert scenery. Mouthwatering main courses such as miso-glazed salmon, Maine lobster udon and hoisin braised short ribs are the brainchild of TV chef Beau MacMillan. Live jazz and craft cocktails are on offer across the hall at Jade Bar, where a manicured clientele lounges on leather sofas, enjoying palm-fringed sunsets.

Located in the former DeSoto Six Motorcars dealership in downtown Phoenix, the newly opened DeSoto Central Market (001 602 680 7747; desotocentralmarket.com) is a far cry from Scottsdale’s pomp. The concrete-lined industrial space houses a range of hip brunch options, including home-style Southern fare with a modern twist at The Larder and Delta (crispy pigs’ ear tacos, pork belly hash and eggs), fresh seafood at Walrus and the Pearl, and cold-pressed juices and salads at Radish.DCM Bar attracts a hard-partying crowd at the weekend. For the ultimate morning-after cure, head back the next morning and order The Kraken: a Bloody Mary garnished with bacon, carrot spears and a cheeseburger slider.

DeSoto Central Market
Jaryd Neibauer

For a snapshot of the city’s Art Deco past, head to Bitter & Twisted (001 602 340 1924; bitterandtwistedaz.com), a superlative downtown drinking hole with a 24-page cocktail menu. The bar is located in the historic Luhrs Building, with a slick concrete, brick and steel interior. Hunker down with a Green Beast — a punchy muddling of absinthe and cucumber; then offset the booze with tempura fish and chips.

In the bag: art and crafts

Unless you have a hankering for cowboy boots and 10-gallon hats, shopping options in Phoenix can seem limited. But there are gems if you know where to look. Find choice vintage pieces at Antique Sugar (001 602 277 5765; antiquesugar.wixsite.com), a newly opened boutique set in a sleek Fifties office block.

For designer labels — including classic items by Emilio Pucci, Christian Dior and Oscar de la Renta — try Fashion by Robert Black (001 480 664 7770; fashionbyrobertblack.com). Failing that, pick up an Andy Warhol at American Fine Art Gallery (001 480 990 1200; americanfineartgallery.com) in Old Town Scottsdale.

Cultural agenda: fine design

Frank Lloyd Wright once said of his prolific career: “Why, I just shake the buildings out of my sleeves.” What he may have lacked in modesty he made up for in talent: Taliesin West (001 480 627 5340; franklloydwright.org/taliesin-west), his winter home and studio in the foothills of the McDowell Mountains, is testament to that. There are daily tours of the house and gardens.

A further 30 minutes’ drive from Taliesin West, another Lloyd Wright creation, David Wright House (001 602 689 6140; davidwrighthouse.org), was opened to the public in 2015. The house was built in a spiral shape — a precursor to the design of the Guggenheim Museum in New York.

Details: Phoenix

British Airways (0344 493 0787; ba.com) and American Airlines (0844 369 9899; aa.com) offer direct flights to Phoenix from Heathrow. Edmund Vallance stayed at Hotel Valley Ho.

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