Niki Nakayama
Chef Niki Nakayama, left, and assistant chef Carole Lida work on plating their kaiseki menu, the traditional Japanese culinary practice at Nakayama's n/naka restaurant in Los Angeles.
(AP file photo)
As the range of ingredients restaurant chefs have at their disposal grows, the flavor combinations they're willing to explore become more deliciously inventive.
In the last year or so cutting-edge culinary types have been turning to the Japanese larder for inspiration, since Japanese cuisine has long focused on flavor. At the heart of this flavor obsession is the Japanese understanding of and appreciation for "umami"
A term that loosely translates as "yummy", umami is that mysterious fifth taste sensation that makes meat, mushrooms, and many other foods so satisfying. Soy sauce is concentrated umami; it's also a major part of the flavor profile of aged cheeses.
The Japanese have long understood the role umami plays in making food enjoyable and have thus developed a number of strategies to boost the umami content of dishes.
One umami builder that's gaining converts in Western kitchens is furikake or "rice seasoning," a mixture of ground dried fish, sesame seeds, seaweed, salt, and sugar. In addition to sprinkling it on boiled rice, Japanese cooks traditionally use it as a pickling spice.
American chefs have started to experiment with furikake as a way of enlivening French fries, pasta, egg dishes, and burgers.
A second seasoning mixture, togarashi, is a sort of chili pepper blend, the exact composition of which varies from producer to producer. In addition to ground chilies, dried seaweed and orange peel are typical togarashi components.
In modern kitchens togarashi is finding a role as a topping for cooked veggies, on burgers and ribs, as part of cold sauces and dips, and even in sweet treats like cheesecake and ice cream.
Perhaps the most surprising of these Japanese flavor builders is kewpie mayonnaise, a particular Japanese brand whose recipe is based on egg yolks rather than whole eggs. Its slightly sweet richness is supplemented with MSG, an ingredient that dramatically enhances the mayo's umami profile.
Chefs here in the U.S. are using kewpie mayonnaise as a flavor builder in dipping sauces, as a sandwich garnish, and as a supplement to (or replacement for) mayonnaise in a host of other dishes.
Hugh Robert is a faculty member in Holyoke Community College's hospitality and culinary arts program and has over 40 years of restaurant and educational experience. Please send items of interest to Off the Menu at the Republican, P.O. Box 1329, Springfield, MA 01101; Robert can also be reached at OffTheMenuGuy@aol.com