The moment you first encounter the panoramic splendour of the Kuhtai mountain pass, while hurtling off the top of Austria’s highest ski resort, you can do little more than take a deep breath.
Granted, altitude plays a major part because at more than 2,000 meters above sea level it feels like you are descending from the clouds.
In fact, by the time my wife Laura and I finally found the bottom of our opening run and came face-to-face with a giant multi-coloured cow, we just laughed it off.
An illusion caused by altitude light-headedness, surely?
It was only when we came across the second and third technicolour beast standing quietly outside shops close to our hotel that we began to wonder where we were.
Thankfully, as we soon discovered, the picture-postcard resort of Kuhtai started out as an alpine pasture farm in 1288 and, as a reminder, locals have dotted large plastic cows around the resort, painted in a broad range of colours.
Nowadays the village is a winter wonderland perched high up in between the Ötztal and the Stubai mountain range and only 35km from Innsbruck and its airport.
Our helpful Inghams holiday rep Bram told us that none other than the great Eddie “The Eagle” Edwards recently gave the resort his wholehearted approval while filming TV show The Jump.
What is truly puzzling is how Kuhtai has managed to stay one of Europe’s few remaining ski secrets for so long –it offers plenty of thrills as well as wide, roomy slopes that are hard to beat.
We took some time out to take in the surroundings, sampling a cup of piping hot mulled wine at one of the traditional Alpine taverns on the mountain.
Despite its elevated status, Kuhtai is the very model of convenience – with doorstep skiing, a snow-sure record and breathtaking scenery. In fact, it is one of the easiest ski resorts in the Alps to access, navigate and enjoy.
Our chalet hotel was so close to the lifts that we could almost touch well- prepared slopes from the comfort of our breakfast table.
It is ideal for all abilities too, from beginners to the advanced – the latter will head straight for the daunting tree-lined terrain and off-piste opportunities following fresh snow falls.
For true daredevils there is a thrilling winter sports park – The KPark – with packed snow kicks and rails running alongside an impossible 6ft walled half-pipe.
Night skiing is also on offer twice a week, offering the surreal chance to slide down a long, well-illuminated piste before heading for the snug warmth of a candlelit Austrian inn.
Among other slightly more tranquil activities on offer is Telemark skiing, which evokes a completely different sensation.
This “free-heel” art has enjoyed a revival in Kuhtai in the last few years and is relatively easy to learn.
With the addition of the Hochoetz ski area, a further 41km of pistes and 11 lifts are available free to Kuhtai lift pass holders (a free 15 minute ski bus ride connects the two resorts).
For après-ski specialists there is more than enough to keep them entertained in Kuhtai. The Igloo Village is literally so cool, it’s freezing.
Thankfully, the constant vibe and vodka help warm up the entertainment, which is a big hit with event teams after a hard day’s competition. So, by the time we sank back into a pair of deck chairs to enjoy a little après-ski on our first day, we were truly reinvigorated by a healthy combination of adrenaline and mountain air.
Typically regarded as one of the most costly pastimes, many Brits are put off giving skiing a try – especially when they have to factor in kids.
But with Inghams’ all-inclusive packages there is a chance for a taste of the slopes in style with some value added. The short airport transfer, coupled with being right by main ski lifts, means you really can maximise your time on the slopes.
Our base, the popular Chalet Hotel Elisabeth, had a welcoming lounge to relax in after skiing and a wonderful panoramic sun terrace.
The staff arrange all boots, skis and passes, which can be easily stored every night downstairs, and they provide some truly fine food.
After a full buffet breakfast, we were given a packed lunch to tide us over until our return, when we were welcomed back with delicious homemade cakes and biscuits for afternoon tea. Then it was off to our rooms to recuperate, or to the hotel’s sauna to ease those aching muscles.
Canapés and cocktails are then served in the bar before everyone makes their way into the main dining room for a four-course evening meal, washed down with a fine selection of local wines.
Our hosts made us feel individually special as they spoke to each table in turn and served up sumptuous platters of roast lamb, beef, duck and game.
With 17 large rooms, all fitted with balconies providing fine mountain views, we enjoyed the sunshine until the very second it dropped below the peaks.
The resort’s height comes with almost guaranteed snow until spring and the easy-to-navigate pistes continue to enjoy a gentle trickle of skiers well into Easter each season.
After that, the number of permanent year-round residents returns to just a lucky 29, who can enjoy the views all to themselves. And get those giant multi-coloured cows ready for the next season.
Get there
GOOD TO KNOW Kuhtai has great well-linked runs. It’s mainly for intermediates - beginners do have a few runs but you need to be able to ski reds to explore the area.
TOP TIPS If skiing during the day leaves you wanting more, head to the slopes at night. The HochAlter chairlift takes you to the well-lit descent every Wednesday
and Saturday from 7.30pm to 10pm.
WHERE TO EAT Enjoy the hearty soups and steaks inside the wonderful Dorfstadl log cabin restaurant.
BOOK IT Inghams has seven nights at the Chalet Hotel Elisabeth on a ski-inclusive basis – breakfast, afternoon tea, five-course dinner with wine, six packed lunches, six-day lift pass, ski and boot hire – from £818pp. Flights: Gatwick to Innsbruck and transfers. Regional flights available for a supplement. inghams.co.uk, 01483 791114