Travel / Destinations

Why you should visit Portofino right now

Belinda Maude, Travel writer 26 September 2016 • 2:52pm

The final traces of summer’s honeysuckle scent are clinging to Portofino

Why go now?

As the final traces of summer’s honeysuckle scent cling to Portofino’s piazzetta, the film stars and fashionistas jump on their superyachts, seeking warmer climates. The town, flanked by pastel-coloured houses, comes alive in the autumnal sunshine and many locals venture out on strolls through the now quieter town. Bag the seats at the best restaurants that spill across the harbour, swim in the child-free, sun-warmed Paraggi bay and enjoy uninterrupted views over the Italian Riviera. It’s the perfect time to steal a slice of la dolce vita in peace.

Getting there

Genoa, the nearest airport to Portofino, is served by Ryanair (0871 246 0000; ryanair.com) and British Airways (0344 493 0787; britishairways.com). From Genoa, Santa Margherita Ligure is accessible by train; taxis into Portofino from there cost €30 (£26), or the 82 bus runs every 20 minutes.

Where to stay

Special treat

Belmond Hotel Splendido (1) at Salita Baratta 16 (read a full review and check availability) boasts an unrivalled location overlooking Portofino harbour with panoramic sea views from coveted La Terrazza restaurant as well as the hotel’s saltwater infinity pool. Double rooms cost from £366 per night, including breakfast.

Mid-range

Domina Home Piccolo Portofino (2) at Via Duca degli Abruzzi 31 (0039 0185 269015) is housed in a converted period villa and sits above the turquoise waters of the gulf with gardens cascading towards the water. Doubles from £119 per night, including breakfast.

Budget

Hotel Argentina (3) at Via Paraggi a Monte (0039 0185 286708; read a full review and check availability) is a seaside hideaway just one mile along the coastline in picturesque Paraggi Bay. Nods to Portofino’s nautical reputation are notable, as well as the faultless service offered by staff. Doubles from £88, including breakfast.

On arrival

6pm

From Portofino harbour, climb the flight of stairs signposted Salita San Giorgio to the plaza of Chiesa di San Giorgio (4). Destroyed by a bomb during the Second World War, the Romanesque-style church underwent reconstruction in the Fifties, prompting the discovery of an ancient, hidden chapel. Enjoy aerial views of Portofino’s quintessential piazzetta, the meeting place of many an international jet-setter.

8pm

Dine at Belmond Splendido Mare’s excellent Chuflay Restaurant (on the same site as the Belmond Hotel Splendido, details above) which spills out on to Portofino harbour. The restaurant serves an excellent selection of local wine and offers regional specialities including home-made short pasta served with traditional Genoese pesto sauce (€28).

Day one

10am

Grab a slice of focaccia con il formaggio (focaccia with cheese), originating from nearby Recco, from Panificio Canale (5) at Via Roma 30 (0039 0185 269248; panificiocanale.it) and wander the town’s twisting backstreets while browsing the windows of high-end shops including Gucci and Luca.

A photo posted by MARY JANE (@la_maryjane) on Sep 17, 2016 at 7:13am PDT

11am

Stroll back to Portofino harbour (6) and, having booked, meet an instructor from DWS Diving Centre (0039 0185 282578; dwsdiving.com), based in Santa Margherita Ligure, who will arrive by boat. Snorkel or dive around the Christ of the Abyss, a bronze statue of Jesus Christ, submerged 50ft underwater in memory of Dario Gonzatti, the first Italian to use scuba gear, who died during a dive in 1947.

1pm

After being dropped off at San Fruttuoso, a stretch of Mediterranean coast accessible only by boat or on foot, visit La Cantina (7), a seaside lunch spot open since 1976 (0039 0185 772626; lacantinasanfruttuoso.it; €20 a head). Sit under the flower-entwined trellis or at a small table on the beach and sample roasted octopus on velvety tomatoes and Taggiasche olive tapenade.

2.30pm

Visit the Abbey of San Fruttuoso (8), named after martyr bishop Fruttuoso who was killed in AD 259 during the eighth persecution of the Christians. According to tradition, Fruttuoso appeared in the dreams of five monks telling them where to bury his remains. To this day his remnants rest in this church.

3pm

Head to the pier at the right of the beach and catch a Line 1, Tigullio-Marine Lines boat (0185 284670; €12 return) back to Portofino harbour, following the coast of the Parco Naturale Regionale di Portofino.

4pm

From the harbour, follow the stairs towards the Chiesa San Giorgio, turning left on to Molo Umberto I. Wind your way through the flower-lined passageways towards Castello Brown (9) a 16th-century Genoese-built fortress (castellobrown.com; entrance €5). Wander the peaceful gardens, with spectacular vistas of the piazzetta and further towards the Cinque Terre coast.

5.30pm

Continue along Molo Umberto I towards the lighthouse at Faro di punta di Portofino (10), a moderate five-minute walk. Grab a glass of local wine (€7) or an ice cream at the alfresco bar overlooking the Mediterranean Sea.

8pm

Catch the 82 bus from Piazza della Libertà towards Santa Margherita Ligure, disembarking at stop “Capo Nord”. Descend the stairs on to the rocky peninsula to arrive at Capo Nord (11). Watch the sun disappear behind the hills of nearby Rapallo while sampling the restaurant’s excellent gnocchetti with prawn ragù and sea asparagus (0039 339 188 9884; caponordsantamargheritaligure.com; €24 a head).

Day two

11am

Located above Portofino’s harbour, the Church of San Martino (12) at Vico Nuovo 42 is in typical Lombard Romanesque style and houses an 18th-century wooden statue of the Virgin of Sorrows as well as a five-figure depiction of the Deposition of Christ. Views of the harbour through the bougainvillea are particularly beautiful from the church’s front steps.

1pm

Pick a harbour-front table at Da I Gemelli (13) and grab a light lunch of spaghetti della nonna – grandmother’s spaghetti – while watching Portofino’s busy piazzetta by day (0039 0185 269257; €13).

A photo posted by Casey Austin (@caseyy.a) on Apr 17, 2016 at 4:46am PDT

2pm

Wander up to the headquarters of Niasca Portofino (14) at Via del Fondaco 12 (0039 0185 269069; niascaportofino.it), a company founded by the residents of Portofino aiming to redevelop the town’s neglected countryside, and hear about the preservation work carried out by dedicated staff.

3pm

With a Niasca guide, meander up the stone stairs behind Portofino into the luscious hills and look back towards the shimmering Ligurian Sea. Sample home-made pesto, focaccia, freshly picked herbs and a multitude of sauces, accompanied by fresh lemonade or a glass of nostralino wine – all produce of the local surroundings – provided by your guide.